T City Guides: Marrakesh
Five leaders in creative fields share their favorite places to eat, drink, shop and play.
Though Marrakesh is steeped in Moroccan history and culture, its creative crowd — including the five people below — embraces modernity. Contemporary art galleries reside among 16th-century palaces, and avant-garde concept stores have become as integral to the shopping landscape as the souks of the medina. To fully appreciate Marrakesh today, it’s all about finding the right balance between the old and new.
Kamal Laftimi
Restaurateur, Nomad and Café des Epices
MAISON ARABE
“One of the oldest boutique hotels in Marrakesh, the bar here remains little known and makes a wonderful place for a quiet drink, especially by the fireplace in winter. Legend has it Winston Churchill used to come here when he wanted a change from La Mamounia.” 1, Derb Assehbi, lamaisonarabe.com.
ARTC FASHION
“Artsi Ifrach is a fabulously flamboyant Israeli-Moroccan designer who has a shop in the medina with very original and unorthodox clothing. It’s also worth visiting just to meet the very opinionated but super amusing designer himself.” 96, Rue Mohammed el Beqal, art-c-fashion.com.
LALLA
“After many years as a professional shopper, the French designer Laetitia Trouillet opened her boutique in Gueliz, which specializes in handbags made by local craftsmen. Lalla is proof that an original, unique design scene exists in Marrakesh.” Boulevard el Mansour Eddahbi, lalla.fr.
RIAD YIMA
“One of Marrakesh’s most famous artists, Hassan Hajjaj has turned his childhood home into a shop, tearoom and gallery for his work. There is nothing like it in the city. And the big secret is that apart from the very original designs, if you contact them in advance, they will make you the best couscous you will ever eat, though it’s only available on Fridays.” 52 Derb Aarjane Rahba Lakdima Medina, riadyima.com.
LE 18
“Le 18 is a cultural foundation run by the amazing Laila Hida, a leading light in the Moroccan contemporary art scene. They host many shows and coordinate cultural events throughout the city. A little off the beaten track, it’s worth calling for an appointment or checking their schedule to see if there’s a show opening, which are well worth attending for an insider’s experience of Marrakesh’s creative community.” 18, Derb el Ferrane, Riad Laarouss, le18.weebly.com.
DAR BELLARJ
“Founded in 1998 by Susanna Biedermann and Max Alioth, a Swiss architect couple, Dar Bellarj is a cultural center in a beautiful old palace. Biedermann and Alioth connect international artists with local women to produce contemporary works based on Moroccan heritage. Their shows are always one of the highlights of Marrakesh’s cultural calendar.” 9-7, Toualate Zaouiate Lahdar Medina, 212-5-24-44-45-55.
EL FENN
“There are many, many incredible palaces in Marrakesh that have been turned into guesthouses and hotels, and one of the best is El Fenn, Vanessa Branson’s beautiful renovation of a collection of old riads. Its restaurant is also excellent, and the terrace is a fantastic spot to hang out and have a drink.” 2, Derb Moulay Abdullah Ben Hezzian, el-fenn.com.
Philomena Schurer Merckoll
Creative Director, Riad Mena & Beyond
DAR RBAA LAROUB
“All the top luxury hotel brands have recently opened shop in Marrakesh, but my personal favorite still remains the intimate Dar Rbaa Laroub, nestled in the midst of the souk. Owner Jean Noel Shoeffler has run this low-key yet stylish guesthouse for over 25 years. The colonial Moroccan interiors, moody smokers’ lounge ambience and delightfully simple breakfasts have attracted in-the-know Europeans for years. It’s also considerably cheaper than the latest Marrakesh additions. Try my favorite rooms, the Colonial or Oriental suites.” 61 Derb Abid Allah Mouassine, darrbaalaroub.com.
GELERIE 127
“Galerie 127 founder Nathalie Locatelli has done much to put contemporary Moroccan photography on the worldwide map. She has a fantastic eye for relatively unknown talents, but also exhibits museum-worthy artists. I love coming here to see the thoughtful expositions she has curated in this stunning loftlike space.” 127 Avenue Mohammed V, galerienathalielocatelli.com.
EL BADI PALACE
“I must admit that I am not the keenest on historical sites, but El Badi is an exception. Stunning by day and breathtaking at night when it’s lit by candles, there is something quite special about this ancient royal palace. I like to wander outside around the grounds and look at the storks who have made this their home.” Ksibat Nhass, palais-el-badi.com.
ESAV MARRAKECH
“Since my French is not exactly parfait, the regular cinema eludes me, but my latest discovery is ESAV (L’Ecole Superieur des Arts Visuels Marrakech), which screens a film made by one of its students every night. I find it a fascinating insight into the perspective and creativity of Moroccan youth.” Boulevard Al Kouliyate, esavmarrakech.com.
MARRAKSHI LIFE
“Randall Bachner — New York native and fashion photographer in a former life — has set up shop in Marrakesh and created his own visual language through local fashion, melding traditional weaving techniques with a keen eye for contemporary patterns. His collection makes up almost my entire wardrobe here.” 111, rue Yougoslavie, 212-5-24-38-98-76.
MUSTAPHA BLAOUI
“A Marrakesh institution, this Aladdin’s cave is a well-edited one-stop shop for all the best interiors the souk has to offer. My hotel is filled with a lot of pieces found here, but mainly I love going to see Moustapha himself, who is always great fun to sit on a sofa and have a chat with, Moroccan mint tea in hand.” 144, Arset Aouzal Road, mustaphablaoui.com.
SOUFIANE
“I’m still carpet crazy after a decade in Marrakesh, and I head to Soufiane for the most unique finds in town. Arrive at his Studio 54-esque stall in the carpet souk and be led through the winding alleyways to his showroom where he houses an incredible stock of both vintage rugs from all over Morocco, as well high-quality new ones of his own design. Soufiane has the best taste in town.” 13, Souk des Tapis, Rahba Kedima, 212-6-15-28-56-90.
David Bloch
Founder, David Bloch Gallery
KECHMARA
“My canteen for the past 10 years, Kechmara is a cosmopolitan place with excellent food,” Bloch says of this sleek, contemporary restaurant in Gueliz, which serves a mix of French and American-inspired dishes and hosts a full schedule of live music (from jazz to reggae) many evenings. “The atmosphere is very relaxed and the owners are always welcoming. It’s nice to have a drink on their intimate outdoor terrace.” 3, Rue de la Liberté, kechmara.com.
RIAD OLEMA & SPA
“This is a magnificent riad, perfectly placed in the medina. The decoration and service are impeccable,” Bloch says of this small guesthouse, hammam and restaurant, a 10-minute walk from Marrakesh’s main public square, Jemaa el-Fna. “Once inside, you feel as if you’ve totally escaped the city.” 32, Derb Sidi Ahmed ou Moussa Bab Doukkala, riadolema-spa.com.
LA MAMOUNIA
“Timeless is the word that comes to mind when I think of La Mamounia,” Bloch says, referring to the storied history of one of Morocco’s most famous hotels, cherished especially for the just-dark-enough Churchill Bar (the cocktail den named after the property’s most famous regular). “I love to spend hours there for a drink or dinner.” Avenue Prince Moulay Rachid; mamounia.com.
BELDI COUNTRY CLUB
“I come here for the serenity and quietness,” Bloch says of this all-in-one social and cultural destination that also includes a 38-room hotel and a 35-meter swimming pool framed by olive trees. “For me, it’s like a peaceful haven away from the bustle of the city, an oasis of greenery. There are excellent wellness services like a spa with two hammams, as well as tasty food and great service.” Km 6, Route de Barrage, beldicountryclub.com.
DAR CHERIFA
“This is a sublime old riad in the medina, both a restaurant and a gallery space that exhibits the work of local artists,” Bloch says. Dar Cherifa bills itself a literary cafe, and has a library for guests to peruse while hanging out amid the riad’s meticulously restored tile and stucco work. “My favorite thing here is to have tea on the terrace.” 8, Derb Charfa Lakbir Mouassine, dar-cherifa.com.
MEDERSA BEN YOUSSEF
“This 16th-century Islamic school is a must-visit to appreciate the full measure of the intensity and skill of Moroccan architecture and craftsmanship,” Bloch says. The school’s interiors are an example of the highest form of the region’s tile work, carved plaster and intricately carved wooden doors. Kaat Benahid, medersa-ben-youssef.com.
MUSEE DE LA PALMERAIE
“An outstanding private initiative of Abderrazzak Benchaâbane — a modern-day Renaissance man, who is an ethnobotanist, garden designer and perfumer. He presents his collection of Moroccan contemporary art — everything from sculpture and painting to photography and calligraphy — in a gallery surrounded by beautifully landscaped gardens.” Dar Tounsi, Route de Fes, musee-palmeraie.com.
Oroma Elewa
Visual Artist
LA PAUSE
“La Pause is a no frills, back-to-nature-style eco-hotel built in an oasis within the Agafay desert, about 35 minutes southwest of the city. It’s appropriately named, since it’s a place to slow a racing mind and to reconnect with nature, and the sunsets here are intensely mesmerizing. It also has a small shop that stocks one of best olive oils I’ve had. The drive to La Pause is also one of my favorite things about living in Morocco.” Douar Lmih Laroussiene, Commune Agafay, lapause-marrakech.com.
LA FAMILLE
“This is a small, family-run restaurant and local goods shop in the medina, set within a garden. I love that the Mediterranean menu is strictly vegetarian and changes daily. Watching the family work in the kitchen looks a little like a scene out of an old Greek film.” 42 Riad Zitoun Jdid, 212-6-69-04-11-37.
GRAND CAFÉ DE LA POSTE
“I don’t mind Café de la Poste for drinks at all. I especially like it’s dark, rustic and cozy décor, which feels very Paris-meets-New York in a way that makes me — originally a New Yorker — very happy. Fair warning, though: Be prepared to tolerate indoor smoking.” Corner of Boulevard el-Mansour Eddahbi and Avenue Imam Malik, 212 5244-33038.
NOMAD
“I think Nomad is one of the best places to dine in Marrakesh. The date cake is a must-try! I love the hustle and bustle of the spice square that one can see from its terraces. Even the walk to and from the restaurant from any neighborhood in the medina is beautiful, especially in the evening.” 1, Derb Aarjan, 212 5243-81609.
KAFE FNAQUE BERBERE
“For authentic Moroccan tagines in a non-touristy setting, this is the place to come,” Oroma says. In the Mouassine district of the medina, the cafe has a terrace overlooking the souks below, providing an ideal spot for a mint tea break between weaving through the maze of markets nearby. Derb Ksour, 212-6-49-58-31-65.
Maryam Montague
Founder, M.Montague; Author, ‘‘Marrakesh by Design’’
HERBALISTS AT THE SPICE SOUK
“Tucked into the back alleys of the spice souk, behind the tangle of zebra skins, dried iguanas and a live owl or two, are the herbalists. They will pluck a hair from your head and tuck it into a brass amulet that they fill with spices, minerals and other magical ingredients. Guaranteed (ahem) to provide protection under even the most dire circumstances.” Located in the medina.
LE PALACE
“My nightclub days are over, but you can find me lounging — grown-up style — downstairs at Le Palace. The setting is ultra-atmospheric, with dark, flattering lighting; and the drinks menu is long. I like to come for dinner with Moroccan and expatriate friends and settle in for the evening.” Avenue Echouhada, 212-5-24-45-89-02.
LANTERN SOUK
“The Lantern Souk is my favorite place in the medina, made up of at least 20 shops. Imagine hundreds upon hundreds of lanterns lit up night and day like an eternal Moroccan Christmas. Many of the lanterns have intricate cutouts that cast mesmerizing, tattoo-like shadows on ceilings, walls and floors.” Located in the medina.
MAGASIN GENERALE
“This is where Ralph Lauren meets North Africa. You’ll find caramel leather couches, linen sheets, indigo cushions and plenty of vintage home-décor items. On the walls are stunning, large-scale black-and-white photography of Morocco and places farther afield. I could move right in.” 360, Sidi Ghanem, 212-5-24-33-66-73.
FADILA EL GADI
“I like to channel a modern-day Talitha Getty at this intimate boutique in the Gueliz district by picking up floaty caftans, silk tunics and hand-embroidered dresses. Everything is exquisitely made, and each time I purchase something, it feels like a special occasion.” 10, Rue Sourya, fadilaelgadi.com.
JEWELS
“Meeting this American jewelry designer, who goes simply by the name Jewels, is a bit like meeting a modern-day sorceress. A jewelry alchemist, she mixes antique talismans into breathtaking new designs. She can also tell you the story behind each and every piece. I am a collector of her work and often visit her boutique deep in the heart of the medina.” 15, Souk Cherifia, jewelsarts.com.
PARADIS DU SAFRAN
“Said to be the most expensive spice in the world, it’s no wonder that fake saffron is about as ubiquitous as sidewalk-sold Louis Vuittons. Thankfully, a mini-class on saffron at Paradis du Safran — an organic saffron farm a half-hour from Marrakesh — has ensured that I will never be bamboozled again. Cooking classes are taught daily and can be followed by a saffron-scented meal, hosted by the red-lipsticked Swiss owner, Christine Ferrari.” Km 31, Route d’Ourika, Douar Takaterete, Ait Touchente, paradis-du-safran.com.
P.C: https://www.nytimes.com/2017/01/16/t-magazine/travel/marrakesh-guide-eat-shop-oroma-elewa-maryam-montague.html
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